Friday, April 19, 2013

Back to the Salt Mines... on your Bike



“Back to the salt mines.”  The saying refers to going back to work at a job that is taxing, tiring, without reward.  It is derived from an old Russian practice of sending re-offending convicts not back to jail but into the salt mines of Siberia.  Apparently the cold Russian salt mines did more to rehabilitate prisoners than three hots and a cot. 


Salt, as the world knows, is one of earth’s most naturally occurring and useful minerals.  The stuff has been part of recipes since we first crawled forth from the primordial ooze.  It wasn’t long before pre-historic man grunted “pass the salt.”  It was the world’s original food preservative.  Today, a dry-aged in salt cut of beef is one of life’s pleasures (although sea salt is the salt of choice for dry aging beef). 



The salt mines still exist and workers still find themselves saying, “Back to the salt mines.”  Where that can be said and heard most is in Cleveland, Ohio—or rather under Cleveland, Ohio.  That is where, if you go down 1,800 feet and then three miles out under Lake Erie, you will find the largest salt mine on earth.  First opened by the aptly named International Salt Company in 1961, the mine has been operated by Cargill since 1997.  The mine is part of the centuries old Great Eastern Salt Basin formed 300 million years ago when a long lost ancient sea evaporated.  Tons of salt are retrieved from the mine daily.  The Cargill salt division has expanded with new mines in Avery Island, Louisiana and Lansing, New York.  


If it is a real salt mine you are after, a salt mine that is literally of museum quality then get out of Cleveland.  Head to Poland.  And bring your bike.  First stop: Krakow (or Cracow), a city dating back to the Stone Age.  Sometime in the 13th century a main square was constructed and from that Krakow began to take shape.  Today nearly eight million people live within 100 kilometers of the Main Square, the largest in Europe.    Much of medieval Krakow remains.  Unlike other parts of Poland, Krakow survived the Second World War due to the fact that it was used as the seat of government for the occupying Axis forces.   Krakow’s many significant structures are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  A bike ride of Krakow is a flat tour of a rather compact city.  The Vistula River offers an easy bike path.  Old Town Krakow is restricted to automobile traffic so bikers can pedal with ease.  Much of what you will see in Old Town was built before 1596, after that date the Polish capital was moved from Krakow to Warsaw (Warszawa) slowing construction.


Now that you have ridden in Krakow it is time to get to the salt mines.  Just outside the city is the Wieliczka Salt Mine.  Opened in the 13th century the mine produced table salt to 2007.  For about $25 USD tourists get a 3-hour tour of the underground labyrinth, filled with dozens of tunnels and chambers.  The mine is one of Poland’s national treasures.  Once inside, stunning works of art carved from the gray salt formations include religious depictions of the last supper, various saints and Krakow’s Karol Wojtyla (Pope John Paul II).  A dramatic chandelier of rock salt hangs in the St. Kinga (the patron saint of miners) Chapel section of the mine.  Mass is still held there today.  The ride to the mine along the Wielicka Road is just over 8 miles one way.   


Visit our website for a short video of the Wieliczka mine at www.stickybottleteam.net.
Everything that is not a human tourist is salt

Krakow's Main Square

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